Orris

Orris refers to the roots of the iris flower, specifically derived from varieties such as Iris pallida and Iris germanica. Preparing orris root for use in perfumery involves a lengthy process where the roots are harvested, peeled, cut, and then dried for several years, which allows its characteristic scent to develop.

The scent profile of orris is distinctively floral and woody, with a richly sweet, slightly powdery aroma. It often carries subtle undertones of fresh violets, and over time, can develop earthy, creamy, and even slightly starchy nuances. Due to its complex bouquet, orris is highly prized in the fragrance industry, particularly for its use in fine perfumes and in flavoring some gins.

Orris is often used as a fixative, helping to stabilize the volatilities of other components in a perfume. The root is also ground into a fine white powder, known as orris powder, used in potpourri and as a natural deodorizer. The rarity and labor-intensive processing of orris contribute to its status as one of the most expensive materials in the perfumer’s palette.